So we left Burgos with all of the necessary provisions to push on. Jess had found a warm hat, gloves, more blister care stuff, and I had gotten a warm hat too. Other people also faired well after visiting the wonderful wizard of Burg-Oz (as a point of reference, no one calls it that except Jess and I, who were delirious with walking). Some people were able to get much needed new footwear or hiking pants. Our typical day of a pilgrim starts on our next day out of Tardajos.
Burgos to Tardajos was a short 3 hour walk after spending most of the morning admiring the cathedral in Burgos. We arrived at 3pm. We continued to follow arrows and shells that are painted everywhere that guide the way along highways, through cities, and open fields. These guides are typically posted in several strategic areas. For instance, on curbs, lightposts, houses, buildings, bridges, sidewalks, and on large immobile rocks. It´s really quite amazing that young ruffians and houligans don´t vandalize them. Some are, however, elaborately decorated in graffiti...we´ll get a picture of that up soon.
So you continue to follow your arrows for the allotted number of hours of hiking in a day. Burgos to Tardajos was only three hours, a very, very light day and only about 10km. Occassionally, in high season, people have been refused from lodging places for traveling such a short distance unless they are able to prove sickness or injury! Arrive in your destination town, Tardajos. Read a bit about it, whatever your guidebook has. Check in to the albergue, refugio, or hostel that you have secretly heard good things about that you wouldn´t share with anyone because there may only be 12 beds ;) and start your afternoon ritual.
Generally, we arrive in the early aftenoon, say between 1 and 3pm. First things first, shower and wash your clothes. Remember, that for all intents and purposes, we are carrying roughly 2 sets of clothing each (with additional rain layers and warm layers) which get pretty filthy pretty quick. Washing your clothes by hand and line drying them is a staple of pilgrim life. And if your clothes aren´t dry by nightfall, you bring them inside because it gets cold and wet at night. Then you hang them from your bunk overnight and then usually from your pack whil you hike the next day.
The showers are really hit or miss. Some places are co-ed and separated by a curtian or plate glass. Others are gender specific and have plenty of space. One thing that we cannot figure out is how we are supposed to get dressed. There is no place to put clean clothes, or dirty clothes for that matter, while you shower. I´ve been putting my dirty clothes on the floor with my clean clothes on top...not sure how Jess has been managing. We have been lucky to have hot water everywhere we´ve stayed. Lots of places have a push-button that gives you about 20-30 seconds of water....not cool.
So you´ve arrived to town, done some laundry, and showered. Now it´s time to find something to eat, because you´ve burned 10,000 calories today. The most economical option is generally to go to the market and buy-prepare your own food. Usually that is difficult, because of siesta. This varies from region to region and usually lasts 3-4 hours in the middle of the afternoon (when hungry pilgrims, and especially americans, want dinner). The spanish do not usually eat until 7 or 8pm at the earliest and can be as late as 11pm any day of the week. Many times you´ll find a "menú peregrino". This is a 3-course meal that is roughly the same in every town. A small salad or pasta, some type of pork platter, and a dessert in a plastic cup. The kicker is, if you order this, you are entitled to a refillable bottle of water and a refillable bottle of wine with your meal :) It´s tough to pass up, especially when you walk through some of the world´s finest vineyards all day.
Dinner is not quick and no one is in a hurry, ever. 7pm is the earliest we´ve been served menú and you usually can´t leave until at least 9pm. Then you get back to your bunk and situate your sleeping bag and brush your teeth. One last look at your pack to make sure that you can get out efficiently in the morning. Arm yourself with industrial TSA-style earplugs because the snoring never ends (I´m sorry that we received negative comments about our discontent with snorers, but I stand by most of our advice!) Lights out around 10pm and there´s really no need to set your watch, the French or the Germans will be up by 6am rustling about. On the road by 7 or 730am with minimal sleep and a long road ahead. Buen Camino!
Next post. Tardajos to Hontanas...
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